Thursday, March 15, 2012

March 13, 2012 Back Home- Black Eye

I just returned from a week away. I was in Manila for 2 days and then Island Cove, Cavite, a resort on the other side of the bay, about an hour away from Manila. All of us Batch 270s were there for InService Training and Project Design and Management. We were learning how to design a project well and write and present a grant appeal. If PC had told me, before I came, that  I would be doing this I may not have joined, but I find I am comfortable with it! I was working with my Co-CounterPart, Ma'am Liza D.Montana. I think it was the best conference I've been to here.

Me, Denny Robertson(Country Director),and Ma'am Liza Montana, my Co-Counterpart.

On the last day we presented a quick sell to reps from the US Embassy, US/AID and other significant funders. From the written evaluation and private oral response, the presentation was strong for receiving a grant. What a great feeling! It is bemusing to me that the whole week-long
training was relaxing albeit challenging to me (this from a person who never wanted to work outside the home). It was also just great to spend time with the other PCVs.

My first project is a Sports Camp, which Trevor and I are co-directing. 5 PCVs from around the Philippines will come to help facilitate. Today, at PILMES, a fellow Grade 6 teacher is helping me polish up a pamphlet for fund appeal. I wrote it but she is generous enough to work her graphic arts magic on it. I have another letter of permission that I wrote to take through all the DepEd officialdom to get permission signatures. Here's the line-up: 1. The principal 2. Division Supervisor 3. District Supe 4. Barangay Captain (local sheriff) 5. Mayor and maybe 6. Governor. I must take this perfectly composed and individualized letter around in person to receive signatures. Very old-world Spanish formalities.So interesting. So I will be on and off jeepneys all day, tracking down these different offices.

 And I will be doing this with a black eye! I had fun playing in the pool at Cavite and trying to climb a big plastic iceberg-type toy. Austin and Steve were trying to help pull me up and Austin's whole body slipped on the wet plastic and his knee punched me in the cheek. That's what I get for playing with the big boys. Austin felt so bad. He even presented me with a whole big extra dark chocolate bar from a package back home. That is real heartfelt sharing, there! I love dark chocolate. Thanks, Austin. Anyway, I'm even cuter now!
It doesn't hurt at all. 




It is good to be back home here in San Jose. Good to be with my Host Family. Also good to be with the Grade 6 team and folks at school.

 I spent a heartwarming evening with Magtibays. We went to supper with friends.

Aah, being with good friends... always wonderful, isn't it? 
Good night, everyone. Magandang Gabi, sa iyong lahat.

Saturday, March 10, 2012

March 11, 2012 Beautification and Clean-Up Days at PILMES

The room is cleaned and swept daily. Always and only by the pupils.

Using 1/2 of a coconut shell, the floor is buffed. This floor is about 100 years old.

Sofia Loren fixing the hinges on the locker she shares with other pupils.

"Beautifying"  the Grounds

These pupils are using a scrap of plywood to cover a hole in the floor.

February 12, 2012 Happy Birthday to Me!

I had a very happy birthay! It seemed to start about 2 months early, very subtly, with people asking or reminding me of my birthday. Some pupils even wished me "Advance Happy Birthday!", with sticky notes they put on the vase on my desk.

Advance Happy Birthday Wishes
 Mam Rachiel texted me early and said the pupils were anxious to see me. Amy and Trevor were here, and Amy and I walked over and when I walked in was I surprised! The pupils and their parents and Mam Rachiel had set up a party for me! They sang to me and there were balloons, cake, flowers and cards and even a few little presents. I got a pretty brooch, which teachers often wear. I opened a soft package and there was a whole stack of white washclothes. These are what people of every age carry, along with a handkerchief, to daub up (or mop up) sweat. Filipinos also tuck them inside their shirt collar so they are hanging down inside against the back and hanging out over the collar. They keep the shirt from sticking to the shoulders as well as absorbing perspiration.  I am truly in the Philippines, about to go through a summer! That is a little daunting but here we go... with these cloths,  I'm ready, right?
 
 Here, the person who is having the birthday provides food for a celebration, to which anyone who wants can come. That costs a lot of money, but somehow they do it. I was lucky because another teacher, Mam Glorydee was born the same day, so we bought a mild feast and split the cost. We ordered fast food of chicken dinners, spaghetti (requisite), pizza and pop. Some parents of our pupils had brought other food for us and a few cakes. Finally Trevor, Amy and I left for Lipa to get the food. That's a 1/2 hour jeepney ride each way.

When we returned with the food, Mam Rachiel had the big, long, blue table in our room covered with paper for a tablecloth. My Tagalog teacher, Mam Rory, was there, too. We put all the food out and while the pupils ate their lunchs and milled around us, we teachers and a few husbands enjoyed our lunch.

Mam Rory has taught me a traditional Tagalog/Spanish dance and she wanted us to show the pupils, so we did. The pupils burst into applause when we did a certain twirl. So sweet. People of all ages are music and dance lovers here. The pupils are familiar with and appreciate dance. So the whole school day passed with a mixture of parties and study.

Mid afternoon our town had a brownout.

Students studying in the dark or with cell-phone light.


My HF had accepted my wishes that we celebrate within our family exactly as they do. All they do is get pansit, the Chinese-type spaghetti, for long life and wishes. They did surprise me with a cake which said, "Happy Birthday Tita Ali". The whole town was quiet and peaceful due to the continuing brownout so supper was candlelit. 



I received cards from family back in the U.S. which was very nice.I felt loaded with good wishes and whole-hearted-belongingness. This was just a joyous birthday and I was smiling whenever I thought about it for days- (still am, in fact).

Party in the Bahay Kubo (Nipa Hut)
Then, Friday night Mam Rachiel and I planned to get together after school. She sent Pare, who is a tricycle driver, to come get me. I hopped in and we buzzed up to their house. When I got out here was a whole gathering of people to celebrate my birthday again! Surprise!  This was the group of folks we spend time with outside of school; going on trips, having parties, etc. We were celebrating in the new bahay kubo, too, so it has had it's first party! I quick called my HF and they all came up, too. 

I am now 56! Healthy, happy, busy and loved! Love to you all!

Saturday, February 11, 2012

February 12, 2012 Musings on the Days Here

In the first months of my being here my emotions were fluctuating wildly. It was reassuring to see on FB that we were all going through this. Our PC literature also forewarned us of this, and PC has been supportive, but reading it and going through it are two different things.  The Peace Corps is wise in making applicants wait a year after a major transition such as death or divorce before being assigned. Homesickness for family hit me much harder than I, a stoic Pennsylvania German, would ever have imagined. On top of that were the deaths of Bob, Mama and Tracy and the turmoil and losses in our families. I don't think I could have made it through the early, difficult months if I had come here earlier. I owe my successful transition to all the good friends and family around the world who kept connected with me. I hope you have some inkling of what your messages have meant.

Here, in San Jose, I was put into the hands of  Rachiel Magtibay, my counterpart teacher. Before I even came she was working for me. She was given total responsiblity for finding a home for me; a critical undertaking. She also carefully chose a language tutor. Meanwhile she was coming to grips with the fact that an unknown AMERICAN (scary) was coming to work with her for two years (scary).  All of this for weeks before she ever met me. It was she who arranged the wonderful Filipino welcome to PILMES.  Day to day, Rachiel is no less whole-hearted. She is wise and kind and constant. She is nurturing and encouraging to me like a good older sister (I sometimes call her "Ate", the Filipino term for eldest, esteemed sister). She is also a consummate professional, as are all of the teachers on our Grade 6 team.

Each day we see each other amidst the sea of Grade 6 pupils. 6 classes, 50-60 per classroom. That's a lot of pupils- waiting for instruction, moving to another class, heading out for break time- the classrooms are all open to each other and students have to flow through them to get to another classroom. Over  the heads of the students we smile and nod to each other. When we get a chance we gather to chat or share food.There is a pleasant and encouraging camaraderie and loyalty. We support each other in every way we can. Being human we all do the supporting and we all do the needing. Like everyone else, I'm on both sides... I suppose every day. This is my work place. This is where I buckle down and focus on the professional mission- teaching, tempting, cajoling and playing with the children to entice a little more English out of them.

  At home I am among our family of seven, accepted and supported and treated like one of the family. I feel good-will and tolerance among the members of this family. This is a peaceful, well-run household. Good food at every meal where we sit down and eat together. After eating we may or may not linger to talk, after which we retreat to our own rooms. This big house allows a lot of space. I head up the massive wooden steps to the spacious upstairs and into my bedroom, my own personal retreat. When Denny, the Country Director saw my room he said, "Yes, this is perfect, I can see this would be hard to replicate." It is kind of like a revamped, second floor sunporch. It is at once cozy and airy- yes, hard to replicate. Here is where I retreat and take care of me. I have hours to myself every night to read, work on computer, etc. It is just what I need to rest from the highly social life outside of here. When Trevor was here he participated in all I did for one day and he asked, with wonder, if this was a typical day? He said the back-to-back activities were great but exhausting. Yes, both are true! I have good balance and it all works well. Again, so much of this is due to Rachiel. She supports me in whatever way I need. She promotes my experiencing every aspect of Filipino life that presents itself, but she also encourages me to rest and take care of myself. And so I am rested and ready to engage every morning.

I am rested, fed and dressed in my school clothes when I step through the gate onto the sidewalk. I have three blocks to walk and I savor them. I love the rustic texture of the hand-laid cement sidewalks, with the dog prints in wavy trails across the squares. I love the various architecture of the houses and the lush bushes and intense-colored flowers hanging over the fences and reaching out through the rails. I am kept busy avoiding dog messes- 5 months and only one misstep! The dogs and I always eye each other warily. They don't seem menacing but I give them wide berth. Locals are more cautious of dogs than I  and I figure they know something I don't. I did see an interesting doggy interaction last week. I was closing the gate when I heard terrible squeeling in the next block. I looked over and here's the scene: One dog mounted on another, trying to mate. He is desperately hanging on while his one ear is being pulled in the teeth of an attacker and another attacker has his back leg in his teeth and is pulling it out to the side and up. That was a lot of doggy drama! I couldn't figure that scenario out and I heard my mantra run through my brain, "All over the world dogs are trying to mate and being attacked, not your business", and I turned my back and walked toward school. About a block down and one over and I came upon several dogs looking bedraggled and tired and I realized this was the motley crew of the mating debacle. So they all survived.  On my daily walks I get to greet a lot of people, as most Filipinos do their errands on foot throughout town. I usually see the old lady, Iggy, across the street, and I see the various venders and then, as I get closer to school, the parents and children. I never tire of saying hi to anyone, especially the children. I love it when a tricycle buzzes by and I hear a little voice chirp, "Mam Ali!" and I peek in and see a little face beaming at me. I pass the cluster of snack venders at the gates of school and the parents tending to their charges.  I say hi to the school gate-guards and I'm back at work again. Happy, happy work.

My work keeps evolving and I'm doing remedial work now with groups of 5 English-illiterate pupils at a time. This is my favorite kind of work! At lunch Rachiel and I share the hot, fresh-from- the-fire food that arrives from her mother every day at lunchtime.  After lunch I'll head to my classroom again and before I know it another school day is ending and I'm retracing my footsteps past the dogs and people, over the story-telling cement and back home. But chances are before I get home my phone will buzz and there will be another invitation for a walk, or to make a native dish, or go to town... I always have two fleeting thoughts, simultaneously: "Good! Someone wants me to do something!" and "Aahh! I'll be able to rest later!" I remember being that way as a child and I guess I always will be. This whole set-up is just right for me.

January 25, 2012 Christmas and New Year's Eve, 2011

I don't know why I haven't blogged. It's certainly not due to lack of material. Holy Cow! So much went on throughout December! Decorations are multiplying, caroling is increasing on the streets in the evening, presents are piling up in the living room and parties, family visits and food is being planned and prepared. All of that is familiar to me. Here are a few different traditions:

We had several gift exchanges, all secret until the final exchange. One was all 47 teachers. We only exchanged once, at the big Christmas party. Another one was held among all 6th graders and their staff,which makes about 300. I happened to get another teacher for that one. The 3rd exchange was among only the teachers/staff of the 6th grade and we had several versions of exchange that went on throughout December.

The first week we exchanged "something heavy". I found a pumpkin on my desk; I gave a bag of rice. The next one was "something wet". I gave roll-on deodorant and received a can of pinapple juice. Another exchange was "something sweet", for which I gave a little packet of candy. I was afraid I was going to forget to give the right gift at the right time, but I got it right... I think.

All these exchanges culminated in the big exchanges which occured during the parties. Parties last hours and involve lots of games and music and, of course, food. So right there are 3 major parties! Mama would love the parties here because everyone- adults and children, men and women- play the games- relay races, guessing games, musical chairs, singing, speeches- when you party here, you really participate! And, of course, tons of food.

While this fun is going on during the day, the solemn advent is being observed at church and the churches are decorated regally.  The last 9 days before Christmas are call "Simbangabi" and there is mass every day at 4AM and again at 8PM. You may be granted special intentions if you attend all 9 masses, but you will definitely be blessed by being part of the crowd. What a cultural (and spiritual) blast! I didn't intend to attend every one but the mood was such a draw. I'd step out of our house into the night and walk onto the street among the many others, all moving toward church. We'd greet each other and visit as we walked along.  Then we'd see the ornately decorated church and it's courtyard, strung with colored lights. If we were early, we'd get inside to sit or stand, otherwise, we joined the hundreds outside. The people outside listened to the mass on the loudspeakers and then filed into the church for communion.

Amy and I traveled to the island of Mindoro over Christmas weekend, so I missed the last couple days of Simbangabi here. Christmas was wonderful with Trevor and Amy. but next year I want to stay here for the holidays. I don't want to miss my H.Fam and friends here. I was here for New Years, though, which is the big day for my H Fam as that's  when their family comes from around the region and we celebrate both holidays at once. Amy came to share that and she was assumed right into the family. We had a wonderful time.

Our celebration started at 3PM with prayers of Thanksgiving. Then we ate a feast, of course. Then there was a birthday party for one of the Manila grandchildren, then we nibbled. Then we had a long Christmas party which lasted for hours but flew by in all the fun. At the end of that we exchanged gifts. We all got gifts for everyone else. Small, thoughtful gifts. I gave a modest set of towels to each married couple and a washcloth to each child. That tradition was exactly as my parents tradition was. Very nice. After the gift exchange, we ate. Then we sang videoke and visited, and ate. Then we had the New Year's Party with its own set of games and we nibbled some more and set off a ton of fireworks. The fireworks lasted for hours all through the town. There was a blue acrid haze drifting over the whole town. And talk about noise! It turns out the noise is purposeful- it drives away evil spirits so the New Year starts fresh and clean.  It was a lot of fun and I looked around at all these people surrounding me and thought, as I often do, about how kind and smart and fun they are! And I loved that they took Amy right in like family. They told her that, too. And they even had gifts for her.

This early-to-bed girl (me) was a little worried I'd fall asleep or get a headache staying awake but not to worry! I was excitedly awake and didn't drop into bed until about 2AM.
Happy New Years, everyone out there reading this blog.

December 10, 2011 Year 18! The Debut

The 18th Birthday Celebration:
My American Egalitarianism (as cultural books call it) balked at this event... I "suspended judgement" and tried to go with an open mind.
The invitation included the program, listing all her sponsors. These are just the center pages. There were several others pages.  Each person is chosen as someone special and close. Above each column of names is the gift being bestowed by them.  Mam Rachiel was a sponsor and she invited me as her guest.







Presenting Ghelyn, in one of the four gowns she donned throughout the evening.


Now, I submit to you, does this look like the smile of a spoiled brat? She was smiling at Rachiel, happy to see her and including me in her welcome. Her parents were just as warm and welcoming.
Ghelyn sat on the stage and an MC announced each person conferring a gift. That person then stepped to the microphone to speak. It reminded me so much "Sleeping Beauty" and all the fairies bestowing their wishes. No evil fairies here, though.       

  It was like a rather grand wedding reception. The venue (a word commonly used here) was beautiful and the food was delectable and I was with Rachiel and Mare Bibe who were explaining each step. It was lovely! There was a very choreographed progression through the events. Along with the formal presentation of gifts, there were dances, very old-world Spanish dances, which is, of course, where this whole tradition started. I kept feeling as though I was glimpsing an event happening hundreds of years ago, and I kept wondering what traditions it displaced.

 As it happened, the story of Ghelyn's parents is important to this tale. There was a young widow with two children. She lived as a single, devoted mother, working hard to provide for her little family. A kind man, much younger than she, fell in love with her and wanted to marry her. She wasn't sure. She'd been a self-sufficient widow for 12 years. But he was determined and patient and so good to her and the children that she finally gave in. They married and he was a loving, kind husband and father to her two children. But imagine his joy when he and his wife had a baby girl! 

Now flash forward 18 years.

As a kind of culminating moment, the family members each gave his or her wishes and thoughts. The older sister "Ate" told of how, as a high schooler, she was so thrilled when her mother told her she was going to have a baby sister or brother. She said her little baby sister was so precious to her and has never stopped being her precious baby sister. As she spoke, her voice broke and she couldn't go on for a moment. It was wonderful to witness this love. Ate works abroad and had flown across the world to be here for her sister.

Throughout the evening I was watching the parents and family. (Shoot- I'm always watching everyone!)  And I was glad to catch this expression on her father's face as he watched Ghelyn.
Daddy watching his little girl.

If we are called to see beyond filth and poverty then we are also called to see beyond opulence and wealth and look into a person's eyes. Look at those eyes.